Best Vintage Watches
to Buy in 2026

The "Moonwatch" that NASA chose for all manned space missions from Gemini through Apollo. The Ref. 145.022 (produced 1968-1988) is the most iconic Speedmaster reference -- the same model worn by Buzz Aldrin on the lunar surface. The Calibre 861 hand-wound chronograph (later 1861) is a legendary movement derived from the Lemania 1873. The stepped dial, DON (Dot Over Ninety) bezel, and asymmetric case create a design that defines the chronograph genre. Early 145.022-69 examples with the transitional 861 movement command the highest premiums. This is the single most historically significant watch a collector can own at an accessible price point.

The Rolex Explorer 1016 was produced from 1963 to 1989 -- one of the longest production runs in Rolex history -- and epitomizes the brand's tool-watch philosophy. The 36mm Oyster case, black matte dial with luminous 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, and Mercedes hands create what many consider the most perfectly proportioned Rolex ever made. The Calibre 1560 (early) and 1570 (later) movements are workhorse automatics that run for decades with proper service. The Explorer 1016 has appreciated more consistently than almost any other Rolex reference because its design is timeless and supply is finite. Early gilt-dial examples command the highest prices, but even late-production matte dials are rising rapidly.

Tudor Submariners have exploded in value as collectors recognize them as the more accessible entry to vintage Rolex-case dive watches. The Ref. 7928 (1959-1968) was the first Tudor Submariner with a crown guard case and 200m depth rating. It used Rolex Oyster cases with Tudor-signed dials and movements (typically a Fleurier automatic base). The "Snowflake" hand variants are especially desirable. The 7928 shares the same case quality and water resistance as contemporary Rolex Submariners at a fraction of the vintage Rolex price -- though that gap narrows every year. These watches were issued to the French Marine Nationale and other military units.

The Autavia is the watch that built Heuer's reputation among racing drivers and pilots. The name combines "AUTomobile" and "AVIAtion," and the Ref. 2446 (first generation, 1962-1966) is the most collectible early Autavia. The Valjoux 72 manual-wind chronograph movement is robust and serviceable. The rotating bezel (available in both 12-hour and tachymeter variants) adds functionality that the Speedmaster lacks. The "Rindt" variant, named after racing legend Jochen Rindt, is the most famous and was voted the most desired Heuer in TAG Heuer's 2017 Autavia Cup. Vintage Heuers offer extraordinary design character at prices well below equivalent vintage Rolex chronographs.

Made famous by Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now, the Seiko 6105-8110 "Captain Willard" is one of the most important vintage dive watches outside of Switzerland. Produced from 1970 to 1977, it features a distinctive asymmetric case, one-piece construction (no removable caseback), 150m water resistance, and Seiko's in-house 6105 automatic movement. The cushion-shaped case was radical for its era and remains striking today. Unlike vintage Swiss divers that command five or six figures, the 6105 offers genuine vintage dive watch heritage under $5,000 -- making it the affordable entry point for serious vintage collectors. The lume patina on original dials develops a beautiful warm cream.

Designed by a young Gerald Genta in 1954 -- eighteen years before he created the Royal Oak -- the Polerouter commemorated the first commercial flight over the North Pole by SAS airlines. The Microtor movement (Calibre 215) with its revolutionary micro-rotor allowed for an impossibly thin profile that influenced decades of slim automatic watchmaking. The cross-hair dial, faceted indices, and elegantly tapered case are pure 1950s sophistication. Universal Geneve is a defunct brand, which means prices remain far below what a comparable Omega or Rolex from the same era would command. This is the cognoscenti's vintage pick -- Genta's first masterpiece.

Before the Swatch Group era repositioned Longines as a mid-range brand, the name commanded respect equal to Omega and Rolex. The vintage Conquest (launched 1954) represents Longines at its finest: superb in-house calibres (the Calibre 19AS is one of the great mid-century automatic movements), elegant case proportions, and dial work that rivals anything from the era. The 35mm case is pure vintage elegance. Prices remain remarkably accessible because most buyers do not realize that vintage Longines movements were once considered among the finest in Switzerland. This is the most undervalued vintage watch on this list, and educated collectors are quietly accumulating them.

The Zenith El Primero was one of the first automatic chronograph movements in 1969, and the A386 was the inaugural model. The tri-color dial (grey, blue, light grey subdials) is instantly recognizable and remains the template for every subsequent El Primero. The movement beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour -- the highest frequency of any standard production chronograph -- enabling timing accuracy to 1/10th of a second. The column-wheel chronograph is integrated (not modular) and delivers 50 hours of power reserve. Rolex used the El Primero in the Daytona for decades. The A386 is the definitive vintage chronograph for collectors who prioritize movement excellence above all else.

The original Polaris (1968) was JLC's answer to the professional dive watch, combining the Memovox's legendary alarm complication with 200m water resistance. The triple-caseback construction -- an inner caseback that acts as the alarm resonance chamber -- created a unique acoustic experience underwater. The Calibre 916 automatic alarm movement is one of the most sophisticated complications of the era. The "tropical" dial variants that have turned warm brown are especially coveted. Only approximately 1,700 original Polaris watches were produced, making them genuinely rare. This is where haute horlogerie meets vintage tool-watch functionality at its most innovative.

The Accutron Spaceview is unlike anything else in watchmaking. Powered by a tuning fork instead of a balance wheel or quartz crystal, the movement hums at 360Hz and sweeps the seconds hand in a smooth, continuous motion visible through the exposed dial. Launched in 1960, the Accutron was the most accurate watch available until quartz arrived a decade later. NASA used Accutron movements in satellite timing instruments. The Spaceview was originally an internal display model, but demand from jewelers who saw the mesmerizing movement led to commercial production. At under $2,500 for a clean example, this is the most fascinating horological conversation piece you can own for the money.