Is your SUB 300
the real deal?
The Doxa SUB 300 is one of the most iconic dive watches ever made, first introduced in 1967 and famously used by Jacques Cousteau's team. Its distinctive orange dial, no-decompression bezel, and cult collector status make it a frequent target for counterfeiters and franken-watches.
How to authenticate a SUB 300
Iconic Orange Dial
The SUB 300 Professional's orange dial is its most recognizable feature. The shade should be a deep, warm, saturated orange that is consistent edge to edge. The dial texture should be clean with no blemishes. The "DOXA" text and "SUB 300" designation must be sharply printed in the correct typeface. Counterfeits have incorrect orange tones or inconsistent color.
No-Decompression Bezel Scale
The SUB 300's bezel features the revolutionary no-decompression scale showing safe bottom times at specific depths (in feet or meters). The numbers and markings should be precisely engraved or printed and easy to read. The bezel should rotate with a smooth, precise click action. Counterfeits either omit this scale entirely or get the depth/time values wrong.
Marlin Logo at 6
The Doxa marlin (fish) logo at 6 o'clock is a hallmark of the SUB collection. On modern reissues, it should be precisely printed or applied with clean detail. On vintage examples, the logo style varies by era. The proportions and positioning should match the specific reference being evaluated. Counterfeits have crude or incorrectly styled fish logos.
Cushion Case Profile
The SUB 300 has a distinctive tonneau/cushion-shaped case that is wider at the middle than the lugs. The case should be 42.5mm with specific lug-to-lug and thickness dimensions. The polished and brushed surfaces should transition crisply. Counterfeits often use round cases or get the cushion proportions wrong.
Beads-of-Rice Bracelet
The SUB 300 is traditionally paired with a beads-of-rice style bracelet featuring small, bead-shaped links. Each link should be precisely formed and the bracelet should drape smoothly around the wrist. The clasp should be signed with the Doxa name. Counterfeits use generic bracelets with loose, poorly formed links.
Swiss Automatic Movement
The modern SUB 300 uses a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement visible through the exhibition case back. The movement should show standard Swiss finishing and the Doxa-signed rotor. It should keep time accurately within COSC-adjacent tolerances. Counterfeits use cheap Asian movements with inferior finishing.
SUB 300 counterfeit warning signs
Wrong Dial Color Saturation
The SUB 300 Professional orange is a specific warm, deep shade. If the dial appears neon, pinkish, muddy, or washed out, the dial is not genuine. Compare directly against official reference images.
Generic 60-Minute Bezel
If the rotating bezel shows a standard elapsed-time scale (0-60 minutes) instead of the no-decompression depth/time scale, the bezel is not a genuine SUB 300 component.
Round Case Instead of Cushion
The SUB 300 must have a cushion/tonneau-shaped case. If the case is perfectly round, the watch is not a genuine SUB 300 regardless of what the dial says.
Franken-Watch Assembly
Be wary of vintage SUB 300s assembled from mixed parts of different eras. The dial style, bezel insert, case, and bracelet should all be consistent with the same production period. Mismatched components indicate a franken-watch.
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Frequently asked questions
Why is the Doxa SUB 300 famous?
The SUB 300 is famous for being one of the first purpose-built recreational dive watches (1967), for pioneering the orange dial for underwater visibility, and for its association with Jacques Cousteau and his Calypso dive team. It introduced the no-decompression bezel that showed divers safe bottom times at a glance. The watch has a devoted cult following among vintage and dive watch collectors.
What is a no-decompression bezel?
Unlike a standard dive bezel that simply tracks elapsed time, Doxa's no-decompression bezel shows the maximum safe bottom time at specific depths without requiring decompression stops. The scale is based on U.S. Navy dive tables. The diver aligns their depth on the bezel with the minute hand to see how much no-decompression time remains. This was a revolutionary safety innovation in 1967.
How much is a vintage Doxa SUB 300 worth?
Vintage Doxa SUB 300 models from the late 1960s and 1970s range from approximately $5,000 for well-worn examples to $15,000+ for pristine, complete sets with original box and papers. The earliest references with the "T-graph" dial and the Cousteau-era models command the highest premiums. Modern reissues retail for approximately $2,000-$3,500, offering the classic design at a more accessible price.