Is your Premier
the real deal?
The Breitling Premier is the brand's sophisticated heritage collection, reviving the elegance of Breitling's 1940s dress chronographs. With refined dial designs and versatile styling, the Premier has become popular among collectors, which has drawn the attention of counterfeiters.
How to authenticate a Premier
Applied Breitling Logo
The Premier features a three-dimensional applied Breitling "B" wing logo at 12 o'clock. The logo should be precisely formed in metal with sharp edges and correct proportions. It should be raised from the dial surface with consistent height. Under magnification, the wings should show fine detail. Counterfeits have flat, printed, or poorly formed logos.
Dial Finishing and Piping
Premier dials feature refined finishes including sunburst, panda (contrasting sub-dials), and pistachio green options. The piping (raised rings) around sub-dials on chronograph models should be perfectly circular and evenly raised. The dial color should be rich and consistent. Counterfeits have dull finishes and uneven piping.
Breitling Caliber
The Premier uses Breitling's COSC-certified calibers, including the B01 in-house chronograph movement. Through the exhibition case back, the B01 should show its distinctive column-wheel mechanism and Breitling-signed rotor. Non-chronograph models use quality Swiss automatics. Counterfeits use generic movements without COSC certification.
Case and Lug Design
The Premier case features distinctive thin, curved lugs that give it a vintage-inspired profile. The 40mm or 42mm case should be slim enough for dress wear. The finishing should show both polished and satin surfaces with clean transitions. Counterfeits have thick, clumsy lugs and poor finishing transitions.
Chronograph Pushers
On Premier chronograph models, the pushers should be elegant rectangular or piston-style with smooth, precise operation. The start/stop and reset functions should engage crisply. The pusher design is specific to the Premier and differs from Breitling's sportier lines. Counterfeits have loose, mushy pushers with imprecise operation.
Alligator Strap and Bracelet
The Premier comes on premium alligator leather straps or a distinctive seven-row metal bracelet. The bracelet links should be precisely machined with smooth articulation. The signed clasp should operate with a satisfying click. Counterfeits have loose bracelets with poorly fitting links and unsigned clasps.
Premier counterfeit warning signs
Flat or Printed Wing Logo
The Breitling wing logo at 12 should be a three-dimensional applied element. If it appears flat, printed on the dial, or lacks detail, the watch is counterfeit.
Missing COSC Certification Text
Genuine Premier dials feature "CHRONOMETER" text indicating COSC certification. If this text is absent on a model that should have it, the watch may not house a genuine certified movement.
Thick Case for a Dress Watch
The Premier is designed as a refined, dressy piece. If it appears bulky or sits high on the wrist compared to official specifications, it houses a non-genuine movement and is counterfeit.
Mushy Chronograph Operation
The Premier chronograph pushers should engage with crisp, defined clicks. If the pushers feel mushy, wobbly, or the chronograph seconds hand stutters rather than sweeping smoothly, the movement is counterfeit.
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Frequently asked questions
What is the history of the Breitling Premier?
The Premier name dates back to the 1940s when Breitling produced elegant wrist chronographs under this line. Breitling revived the Premier collection in 2018 under CEO Georges Kern, repositioning it as the brand's lifestyle and heritage line alongside the more athletic Navitimer and Superocean. The modern Premier draws design cues from mid-century Breitling chronographs while using current in-house movements.
What movement does the Premier use?
The Premier Chronograph 42 uses Breitling's in-house B01 caliber, a COSC-certified automatic chronograph with a column wheel and approximately 70 hours of power reserve. The Premier Automatic 40 uses the Breitling B37 caliber (based on a quality Swiss automatic) with COSC certification. Both movements are visible through the sapphire exhibition case back.
How does the Premier compare to the Navitimer?
The Premier is Breitling's dress/lifestyle collection while the Navitimer is the brand's iconic aviation chronograph. The Premier has thinner, curved lugs and a more refined dial without the Navitimer's slide rule bezel. The Premier is designed for versatility from office to evening wear, while the Navitimer is a bold tool watch. Both can use the B01 in-house chronograph movement.