Is your Navitimer
the real deal?
The Breitling Navitimer has been the quintessential pilot's chronograph since 1952. Its complex dial and iconic slide rule bezel make it both a collector's grail and a counterfeiter's challenge. Here's what to look for.
How to authenticate a Navitimer
Slide Rule Bezel Functionality
The Navitimer's signature circular slide rule must be fully functional. The outer rotating bezel should turn smoothly and interact with the inner fixed scale for calculations. The logarithmic markings must be precisely engraved with consistent depth and spacing. On counterfeits, the slide rule is often non-functional, with printed rather than engraved markings, and the scales may not align correctly for actual calculations.
Winged B Logo Detail
The Breitling winged "B" logo at 12 o'clock is a key authentication point. On genuine Navitimers, the wings are finely detailed with individual feather lines, and the central "B" is sharply defined with consistent stroke weight. The logo should be applied (raised) on the dial, not simply printed. Fakes frequently have blurry wing details, a poorly formed "B," or a flat printed logo.
Three Subdial Alignment
The Navitimer's three subdials (typically at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock) must be perfectly centered and symmetrically positioned on the dial. Each subdial should have cleanly printed scales and hands that point precisely to zero when reset. On counterfeits, subdials are often slightly off-center, unevenly spaced, or have hands that don't align properly with their respective scales.
Beaded Bezel Edge
The Navitimer's bezel has a distinctive beaded (coin) edge that provides grip for rotating the slide rule. Each bead should be uniformly sized, evenly spaced, and sharply defined. This beaded edge is machined with extreme precision on genuine watches. Counterfeits often have a smooth edge or poorly formed beads that are uneven in size and spacing, making the bezel difficult to grip.
Crown Operation
The Navitimer's crown should operate smoothly through its positions: winding, date setting, and time setting. It should screw down firmly on water-resistant models. The crown is typically signed with the Breitling "B" logo, which should be sharply engraved. Counterfeits may have a crown that feels gritty, doesn't screw down properly, or has a poorly engraved or missing logo.
Case Back Engravings
The Navitimer case back features detailed engravings including the reference number, serial number, water resistance rating, and Breitling branding. On genuine pieces, these engravings are deep, clean, and evenly spaced with consistent font weight. The case back should be perfectly flat or gently curved with no visible tool marks around the edges. Counterfeits often have shallow, uneven engravings with inconsistent character spacing.
Navitimer counterfeit warning signs
Non-Functional Slide Rule
The most obvious sign of a fake Navitimer is a slide rule bezel that doesn't actually work. On counterfeits, the outer bezel may not rotate at all, or the scale markings may be decorative and not mathematically accurate. Try performing a simple multiplication: set 10 on the outer scale against 25 on the inner scale, then read the result at the 10 marker on the inner scale. It should read 250.
Blurry Winged B Logo
The Breitling winged "B" logo requires extremely fine craftsmanship to produce correctly. On fakes, the wings lack individual feather detail and appear as solid shapes, the "B" may have uneven stroke width, and the overall logo may appear slightly too large or too small relative to the dial. Under 10x magnification, a genuine logo shows crisp, clean edges throughout.
Misaligned Subdials
On genuine Navitimers, the three chronograph subdials are positioned with perfect symmetry. The 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock subdials sit at the same height, and the 6 o'clock subdial is perfectly centered. On counterfeits, one or more subdials may be shifted slightly, creating a visually unbalanced dial. Also check that the subdial hands reset cleanly to the 12 o'clock position.
Smooth Bezel Edge
A genuine Navitimer has a finely beaded (knurled) bezel edge with precisely machined individual beads. Counterfeit Navitimers often have a completely smooth bezel edge or very poorly defined beading where individual beads merge together. The beaded edge is essential for gripping and rotating the slide rule, so a smooth edge is both a functional and aesthetic giveaway.
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Frequently asked questions
What is the slide rule bezel on a Navitimer used for?
The Navitimer's circular slide rule bezel is a flight computer that allows pilots to perform various aviation calculations. By rotating the outer bezel against the inner fixed scale, you can calculate fuel consumption, rate of climb or descent, airspeed, distance conversions (nautical miles, statute miles, kilometers), and multiplication or division. It functions like a circular version of a traditional slide rule. The two logarithmic scales interact to give instant results without electronics.
What is the history of the Breitling Navitimer?
The Navitimer was introduced in 1952 as a wrist-mounted flight computer for pilots. It was adopted as the official watch of AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association), and early models featured the AOPA wings logo on the dial instead of Breitling's own logo. The name "Navitimer" is a portmanteau of "navigation" and "timer." It originally used the Venus 178 hand-wound movement, later transitioning to the Valjoux 7750 and eventually Breitling's in-house B01 caliber. It remains one of the longest-running chronograph models still in production.
What is the difference between the AOPA wings and the B logo on the Navitimer?
Early Navitimer models (1952 through the 1960s) featured the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) winged emblem at 12 o'clock on the dial, as the watch was the official timepiece of the organization. When the licensing agreement ended, Breitling replaced the AOPA wings with its own winged "B" logo. Modern Navitimers use the Breitling "B" with wings. Vintage models with the original AOPA logo are highly sought after by collectors and command premium prices.