How to clean a watch

You do not need expensive equipment to clean a watch properly. Everything you need is already in your home or available for a few dollars.

Stainless steel bracelets are the most common on watches from Rolex, Omega, Tudor, TAG Heuer, and Seiko. They are durable but accumulate grime between links surprisingly fast, especially around the clasp and the links closest to the case.

Step 1: Confirm water resistance. Before you get anything wet, make sure your watch has at least 100m (10 ATM) water resistance and that the crown is fully screwed down. If your watch is rated below 100m or you are unsure, detach the bracelet from the case and clean them separately — keep the watch head dry.

Step 2: Soak briefly. Place the bracelet (still attached to the watch if water resistance permits) in a bowl of lukewarm water with one drop of mild dish soap. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes to loosen accumulated dirt and oils.

Step 3: Scrub gently. Using a soft-bristle toothbrush, gently scrub between each bracelet link, around the clasp mechanism, and along the underside where the bracelet contacts your skin. Pay special attention to the spaces between the end links and the case — this is where the most grime hides.

Step 4: Rinse. Hold the watch under gently running lukewarm water to rinse away all soap residue. Soap left in the links can attract more dirt and leave a filmy residue.

Step 5: Dry thoroughly. Pat dry with a microfiber cloth, making sure to get between the links. Let the watch air-dry for 15-20 minutes in a well-ventilated spot before wearing. Trapped moisture between links can cause skin irritation and, over time, surface corrosion.

Leather watch straps — whether calfskin, alligator, ostrich, or suede — require a completely different approach. Water is leather's worst enemy when used improperly, and harsh chemicals will destroy the material in a single application.

For regular cleaning: Wipe the strap with a barely damp cloth — just enough moisture to remove surface dirt and sweat. Immediately dry with a separate, dry microfiber cloth. Let the strap air-dry away from direct sunlight or heat sources, which can cause cracking and discoloration.

For deeper cleaning: Apply a small amount of leather cleaner formulated for fine leather goods (brands like Saphir, Lexol, or Bickmore make suitable products). Work it in gently with a soft cloth, then wipe off the excess. Follow with a thin layer of leather conditioner to restore moisture and prevent the strap from becoming brittle. Condition your leather strap every 2-3 months, or more often in dry climates.

Odor control: Leather absorbs sweat and develops odor over time. Sprinkling a small amount of baking soda on the strap overnight and brushing it off in the morning can help neutralize odors. Rotating between two straps also gives each one time to dry completely between wearings, which dramatically extends lifespan and reduces smell.

Rubber, silicone, and NATO (nylon) straps are the easiest to clean and the most forgiving. They are designed for active wear and handle water exposure well.

Rubber and silicone straps (common on G-Shock, Omega Seamaster, Tudor Pelagos, and many sport watches) can be cleaned with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Scrub both the outer and inner surfaces, rinse thoroughly, and dry with a cloth. Rubber straps are prone to attracting dust and lint — a quick wipe with a damp cloth daily keeps them looking fresh. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight when not wearing the watch, as UV light can degrade rubber over time.

NATO and nylon straps are essentially fabric and can be hand-washed with warm water and mild soap. Remove the strap from the watch, scrub with a soft brush, rinse well, and hang to dry. For stubborn stains or odors, soak the strap in warm soapy water for 15-20 minutes before scrubbing. Some watch enthusiasts run NATO straps through a delicate cycle in the washing machine inside a mesh laundry bag, though hand washing is gentler and safer for the hardware.

The watch case and crystal are the most visible parts of your timepiece, and they also harbor some of the most stubborn grime — particularly in the gap between the bezel and case, around the crown, and between the lugs.

The case: Use the same warm soapy water and soft brush method described for bracelets. Pay attention to the area where the lugs meet the case (where straps or bracelets attach), the crown guards on dive watches, and the bezel-case junction. These crevices trap dead skin, dust, and oils. A soft brush with slightly splayed bristles can reach into these narrow spaces effectively.

The crystal: Whether your watch has sapphire (Rolex, Omega, most Swiss luxury brands), mineral (many Seiko, Casio, and mid-range watches), or acrylic/Hesalite (Omega Speedmaster Professional) crystal, the cleaning method is the same. Breathe lightly on the crystal to create a thin layer of moisture, then gently wipe with a clean microfiber cloth in small circular motions. This removes fingerprints and smudges effectively.

For stubborn spots on sapphire crystals, a tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol on the microfiber cloth works well — sapphire is chemically inert and will not be affected. However, avoid alcohol on acrylic/Hesalite crystals, as it can cloud or damage the plastic surface. For acrylic crystals, warm water and a very soft cloth are safest.

Improper cleaning methods cause more damage than dirt ever will. These are the most common mistakes that can ruin a watch's finish, compromise its seals, or damage the movement.

• ✖ No ultrasonic cleaners at home. Consumer ultrasonic cleaners can force water past gaskets into the movement, loosen crystal seals, and damage lume paint. Professional watchmakers use ultrasonic cleaning only on disassembled components — never on a fully assembled watch. Leave ultrasonic cleaning to the professionals.
• ✖ No chemical cleaners or solvents. Window cleaners, jewelry dips, acetone, bleach, and ammonia-based products can strip protective coatings, attack gasket material, discolor PVD and DLC finishes, and damage dial printing. The mild dish soap method is all you need.
• ✖ No paper towels or tissues. Paper products contain wood fibers that are abrasive at the microscopic level. Over time, wiping your crystal and case with paper towels creates fine scratches visible in direct light. Always use microfiber.
• ✖ No hot water. Hot water can cause thermal shock to gaskets and seals, accelerating their degradation. It can also cause certain metals to expand at different rates, compromising the seal between the case back and case. Lukewarm is always the right temperature.
• ✖ No compressed air. While it seems harmless, compressed air can force dust particles into crown tubes, pusher seals, and bezel gaps. It can also blow moisture deeper into crevices rather than removing it.

The right cleaning frequency depends on how you wear your watch and the conditions you expose it to.

Regular at-home cleaning handles 90% of what your watch needs. However, there are situations where professional cleaning is worth the investment.

Professional ultrasonic cleaning is part of every full watch service. When a watchmaker services your watch, they disassemble it completely, then ultrasonically clean the case, bracelet, and individual movement components in specialized solutions. This level of cleaning reaches areas you simply cannot access at home — the interior of bracelet links, microscopic crevices in the case, and the movement itself. A professional cleaning as part of a service typically costs $50-$100 on top of the service price, or $75-$150 as a standalone service.

When to go professional: If your bracelet has become noticeably grimy despite regular home cleaning, if there is visible dirt trapped between the crystal and bezel that you cannot reach, if the bracelet feels stiff or gritty when articulating, or if the watch has not been cleaned in years. Also consider professional cleaning before selling a watch — a clean, sparkling watch photographs better and commands a higher price.