How to care for your luxury watch

The most important thing you can do for your watch is develop good daily habits. Most damage to luxury watches doesn't come from a single dramatic event — it comes from accumulated exposure to things that slowly degrade the case, crystal, movement, and seals over time.

• ✖ Avoid extreme temperatures. Don't leave your watch on a car dashboard in summer or expose it to sudden temperature swings. Extreme heat can degrade gaskets and lubricants. Extreme cold can thicken lubricants and affect timekeeping accuracy. Saunas and hot tubs are particularly dangerous — the combination of heat and steam can force moisture past gaskets designed for liquid water pressure, not steam.
• ✖ Remove before strenuous activity. While luxury watches are built to be worn, they're not designed for high-impact sports, heavy gym sessions, or activities involving intense vibration. Repeated shocks can damage the balance staff, pivot jewels, and other delicate movement components. Golf swings, tennis serves, and heavy weightlifting generate enough G-force at the wrist to cause real damage over time.
• ✖ Never adjust the date between 9 PM and 3 AM. On most mechanical watches, the date-change mechanism engages during this window. Using the quickset date function while these gears are partially meshed can strip the teeth and cause expensive damage. Always wind the hands past 3 AM before using the date quickset. This is one of the most common and costly mistakes watch owners make.

Understanding how to properly wind your watch depends on the type of movement inside it. Getting this right ensures consistent timekeeping and prevents unnecessary wear on the winding mechanism.

Manual-wind watches require you to wind the crown by hand to tension the mainspring. Turn the crown clockwise (when looking at the crown head-on) with gentle, steady rotations. You'll feel increasing resistance as the mainspring tightens. When you feel firm resistance, stop. Most manual-wind movements provide 40-48 hours of power reserve, so winding once daily at the same time is ideal. This builds consistency and helps you monitor the watch's health — if the power reserve starts dropping noticeably, it may be time for a service.

Automatic watches wind themselves through a weighted rotor that spins as you move your wrist throughout the day. If you wear your automatic watch daily, the natural motion of your arm provides enough energy to keep it running. However, if the watch has stopped because you haven't worn it for a day or two, give it 30-40 manual crown winds to build an initial power reserve before putting it on. This ensures the mainspring has enough tension for the automatic winding to maintain. For a deeper look at automatic winding, see our complete guide to winding an automatic watch.

Water resistance is one of the most misunderstood aspects of watch ownership. The rating on your case back does not mean what most people think it means, and treating water resistance as permanent rather than a degrading feature is one of the fastest ways to destroy a luxury watch.

Water resistance ratings are tested under static laboratory conditions. A watch rated to 100 meters (10 ATM) was tested motionless in pressurized water. In real-world conditions — where your arm is moving, water is hitting the watch at angles, and temperature changes cause expansion and contraction — the effective resistance is significantly lower. For a detailed breakdown of what each rating actually means in practice, read our guide to water resistance ratings.

Gaskets degrade over time. The rubber or silicone gaskets that seal your watch against water exposure dry out, compress, and lose their elasticity with age, temperature changes, and chemical exposure (sweat, sunscreen, chlorine). A watch that was water-resistant when you bought it may no longer be after 2-3 years without gasket replacement. This is why manufacturers recommend annual water resistance testing if you regularly expose your watch to water.

Test annually. If you swim, shower, or otherwise regularly expose your watch to water, have it pressure-tested by a watchmaker once a year. The test is inexpensive (typically $20-$50) and takes a few minutes. It can save you from a water damage repair that could cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. Many watchmakers and authorized dealers offer this service.

Regular cleaning keeps your watch looking its best and prevents the buildup of dirt, sweat, and oils that can corrode metal surfaces and degrade seals. The key is using the right methods — aggressive cleaning can cause more damage than the dirt itself.

For the bracelet and case: Use lukewarm water (not hot) and a very soft brush — a clean, soft-bristle toothbrush works well. Gently scrub between bracelet links and around the case where dirt accumulates. If the watch has adequate water resistance (100m+) and you've confirmed the crown is screwed down, you can briefly rinse under running water. For watches with lower water resistance, dampen the brush rather than submerging the watch. A tiny drop of mild dish soap on the brush can help cut through stubborn grime, but rinse thoroughly afterward.

For the crystal: Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth. Breathe lightly on the crystal to create a thin layer of moisture, then wipe gently with the cloth. This removes fingerprints and smudges without risking scratches. Avoid paper towels, napkins, and tissues — they contain wood fibers that can micro-scratch both mineral and sapphire crystals over time.

For leather straps: Never submerge a leather strap in water. Wipe with a barely damp cloth and let it dry naturally away from direct heat or sunlight. Leather conditioner applied sparingly every few months keeps the strap supple and prevents cracking. Rotate between two straps if possible to let each one dry completely between wearings.

How you store your watch when you're not wearing it matters more than most owners realize. Proper storage protects against dust, moisture, UV damage, accidental impacts, and even theft.

Use a watch box or roll. A dedicated watch box with individual cushioned compartments prevents your watches from touching each other and getting scratched. A watch roll serves the same purpose for travel. The lining should be soft — microfiber, suede, or Alcantara. Avoid storage materials that off-gas chemicals, such as certain foams or treated leathers, which can tarnish metal surfaces over time.

Location matters. Store your watches away from direct sunlight, which can fade dials, degrade lume material, and dry out gaskets. Choose a cool, dry place with stable temperature. Avoid bathrooms (humidity), windowsills (UV and temperature swings), and nightstands near radiators or heating vents. A bedroom closet or dresser drawer is often ideal.

Watch winders — the debate. Watch winders keep automatic watches running when you're not wearing them, which means you don't have to reset the time and date when you pick them up. However, they also keep the movement running continuously, which means more wear on the lubricants and components.

A mechanical watch is a precision instrument with hundreds of tiny components that work together under tension, friction, and lubrication. Over time, lubricants dry out and degrade, gaskets lose their seal, and metal surfaces develop microscopic wear. Regular servicing replaces these consumables and restores the watch to factory specifications.

Manufacturer recommended intervals:

• ✔ Rolex: Every 10 years (extended from 5 years thanks to their Parachrom hairspring and improved lubricants in modern calibers).
• ✔ Omega: Every 5-8 years, depending on the caliber. Co-Axial movements with Master Chronometer certification may last closer to 8 years between services.
• ✔ Patek Philippe: Every 3-5 years for complicated models, 5-7 years for simpler calibers.
• ✔ General Swiss mechanical: Every 5-7 years as a safe baseline for most brands.

Signs your watch needs service now:

• ✖ Losing or gaining significant time. If your watch is running more than +/- 10-15 seconds per day consistently, the movement likely needs regulation or servicing. Sudden changes in accuracy are more concerning than gradual drift.
• ✖ Power reserve is dropping. If your automatic watch used to run 48 hours off the wrist and now dies after 24, the mainspring or winding mechanism may need attention.
• ✖ Crown feels different. If the crown feels gritty, unusually stiff, or unusually loose when winding or setting, the crown tube, gaskets, or winding stem may be worn.
• ✖ Moisture inside the crystal. Any condensation or fogging under the crystal means water has entered the case. This is an emergency — take the watch to a watchmaker immediately. Even small amounts of moisture can cause rust on steel components within hours.
• ✖ Date change is sluggish or noisy. The date mechanism should click over cleanly. Grinding sounds or slow changes suggest worn or misaligned components.

Where you have your watch serviced is one of the most consequential decisions you'll make as a watch owner. The wrong watchmaker can cause more damage than they fix, while the right one will keep your watch running for decades.

Authorized Service Centers (ASC) are certified by the watch manufacturer to perform repairs using genuine parts, factory-trained watchmakers, and brand-specific tools and equipment. Sending your watch to the ASC guarantees it will be worked on according to the manufacturer's standards. This is the safest option, especially for watches under warranty or those with high collectible value where maintaining a complete factory service history matters. The tradeoff is cost (ASC pricing is typically 30-50% higher than independent watchmakers) and turnaround time (often 4-8 weeks as watches are usually shipped to a regional service center).

Independent watchmakers range from exceptional craftspeople who rival or surpass factory service quality to amateurs working out of their garage. A good independent watchmaker offers faster turnaround (often 1-3 weeks), lower cost, and more personalized communication. Many have decades of experience with specific brands and can match ASC quality at a fraction of the price. The risk is finding the right one.

Service costs vary significantly by brand, model complexity, and whether you use an authorized service center or an independent watchmaker. These are approximate ranges for a complete service (disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, regulation, gasket replacement, and pressure testing) at authorized service centers as of 2026.

Independent watchmakers typically charge 30-50% less than these figures for equivalent work. However, if your watch is under warranty or you plan to sell it in the near future, an ASC service history on paper can add value and maintain warranty coverage.

A luxury watch is both a functional object and a financial asset. Protecting its value requires the same attention as protecting its mechanics.

• ✔ Get insurance. Standard homeowner's or renter's insurance may cover watches, but often with low limits and high deductibles. Specialized watch insurance providers (like Hodinkee Insurance, JEWELERS MUTUAL, or Chubb) offer policies specifically designed for timepieces with agreed-value coverage, worldwide protection, and coverage for accidental damage. The annual premium is typically 1-2% of the watch's value — a small price for peace of mind.
• ✔ Keep box and papers. The original box, warranty card, purchase receipt, and any certificates of authenticity significantly affect resale value. A Rolex Submariner with full box and papers can sell for 10-20% more than an identical watch without them. Store these items safely in a separate location from the watch itself.
• ✔ Document with photos. Photograph your watch thoroughly when you buy it and periodically afterward. Capture the serial number, case back, dial details, and any distinguishing characteristics. These photos serve as proof of ownership for insurance claims and help identify your watch if it's ever lost or stolen. You can use WatchScanning to create a detailed digital record of your timepiece.
• ✔ Keep service records. Maintain a log of every service, battery change, gasket replacement, and repair. A complete service history demonstrates responsible ownership and reassures future buyers that the watch has been properly maintained.

Even experienced watch owners make these mistakes. Being aware of them can save you from costly repairs and preserve your watch's condition and value.

• ✖ Leaving the crown unscrewed. This is the number one cause of water damage in screw-down crown watches. After setting the time or date, always screw the crown back down firmly (but don't force it). Make it a habit to check the crown before washing your hands or any water exposure.
• ✖ Using the date quickset in the danger zone. As mentioned earlier, adjusting the date between approximately 9 PM and 3 AM on most mechanical watches can damage the date-change mechanism. The gears are partially engaged during this period, and forcing the quickset can strip teeth. Always advance the hands past 3 AM first.
• ✖ Exposing to perfume, cologne, and chemicals. Spray fragrance on your wrists before putting on your watch, not after. Alcohol and chemical compounds in perfumes and colognes can degrade gaskets, discolor certain dial and case finishes, and attack leather straps. Sunscreen and insect repellent are similarly damaging — apply them, let them absorb, then put on your watch.
• ✖ Skipping service because the watch "runs fine." A mechanical watch can continue running for years past its recommended service interval, but internally the lubricants are degrading, metal-on-metal contact is increasing, and microscopic wear is accumulating. Waiting until the watch stops or starts losing significant time usually means more extensive (and expensive) repairs than a routine preventive service.
• ✖ DIY repairs and case back removal. Opening a watch case back without proper tools and training almost always causes damage — scratched case backs, damaged gaskets, introduced dust particles, or worse. Even something as simple as a battery change on a quartz watch should be done by someone with the right tools and a clean working environment. The $20 you save by doing it yourself can result in a $500 repair if something goes wrong.
• ✖ Wearing a dress watch as a daily beater. Ultra-thin dress watches (like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin or Piaget Altiplano) are designed for elegance, not durability. Their thin cases and delicate movements are more susceptible to shock damage. If you need a daily wear watch, choose something with at least 100m water resistance and a robust movement designed for everyday use.

Keep this checklist as a reference for maintaining your watch in top condition.