Are watches a good investment?
The short answer: probably not. The longer answer involves understanding which watches actually appreciate, why most do not, what the 2022 bubble taught us, and why the best reason to buy a watch has nothing to do with money.
The truth: most watches depreciate
Let us start with the uncomfortable reality. The vast majority of luxury watches -- including expensive ones from prestigious brands -- lose value the moment you buy them. A brand-new Omega Speedmaster Professional purchased at retail for $6,500 will sell on the secondary market for approximately $4,500-$5,500 within a year. A new Breitling Navitimer bought for $9,000 might fetch $5,500-$7,000 used. A new TAG Heuer Carrera purchased for $5,500 will likely sell for $3,000-$4,000.
Typical depreciation
- • Year 1: 20-40% loss from retail price
- • Year 5: 30-50% loss from retail price
- • Year 10: 40-60% loss, then stabilization for quality brands
These figures apply to the majority of watches from brands like Omega, Breitling, TAG Heuer, IWC, Cartier, Panerai, and even some Rolex models (particularly precious metal Datejusts and Cellini).
This depreciation is not a flaw -- it is normal consumer goods behavior. You would not expect a car, a suit, or a piece of electronics to appreciate in value. Watches are luxury goods, and luxury goods are consumed. The idea that they should "hold value" or "appreciate" is a relatively recent marketing narrative, heavily promoted during the speculative bubble of 2020-2022.
Which watches actually appreciate
A small number of watches from a small number of brands have consistently demonstrated value appreciation over extended periods. These are the exceptions, not the rule.
The short list
- • Rolex Daytona (steel): Retail $14,800, secondary market $25,000-$35,000. Consistently above retail since the 2016 model update.
- • Rolex Submariner (steel): Retail $9,100, secondary market $12,000-$15,000. Steady premium, though smaller than during the 2022 peak.
- • Rolex GMT-Master II (steel): Retail $10,800, secondary market $15,000-$20,000. The "Pepsi" and "Batman" bezels command the highest premiums.
- • Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: Discontinued in 2021 at retail $35,000, secondary market $90,000-$130,000. The most extreme appreciation of any modern watch.
- • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST: Retail $24,000, secondary market $35,000-$45,000. Strong but volatile.
Notice the pattern: these are all stainless steel sports watches from the three most recognized luxury watch brands. Gold dress watches, complicated watches, and models from brands outside the "big three" (plus a few independents) almost never appreciate. A $50,000 gold Patek Philippe Calatrava will sell for $30,000 used. A $20,000 A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia will sell for $12,000-$15,000 used.
The bubble and correction of 2022-2024
Between 2020 and early 2022, luxury watch prices experienced an unprecedented speculative bubble. A confluence of factors drove prices to irrational levels: pandemic stimulus checks, lockdown boredom, social media hype, cryptocurrency wealth, low interest rates, and genuine supply shortages from factory closures.
Peak vs. correction (select references)
- • Rolex Daytona 116500LN: Peak $50,000+ (March 2022) -- Corrected to $28,000-$32,000 (2024) -- Still above $14,800 retail
- • Patek Nautilus 5711/1A: Peak $240,000+ (March 2022) -- Corrected to $100,000-$130,000 (2024) -- Still above $35,000 retail
- • AP Royal Oak 15500ST: Peak $75,000+ (March 2022) -- Corrected to $35,000-$42,000 (2024) -- Still above $24,000 retail
- • Rolex GMT-Master II "Pepsi": Peak $35,000+ (March 2022) -- Corrected to $18,000-$22,000 (2024) -- Still above $10,800 retail
The correction was brutal for anyone who bought at peak prices. People who paid $50,000 for a steel Daytona in early 2022 lost $20,000 in paper value within 18 months. The lesson was clear: watches are subject to the same speculative dynamics as any other asset, and buying at the top of a hype cycle is a reliable way to lose money.
By 2025, the market stabilized at levels above pre-pandemic norms but well below the speculative peaks. The correction flushed out speculators and flippers, returning the market to buyers who actually intended to wear their watches.
What drives watch values
Scarcity (real and artificial)
Rolex produces approximately 1 million watches per year but demand far exceeds supply for sports models. This creates genuine scarcity. Patek Philippe produces approximately 70,000 watches per year, and the Nautilus was limited to a fraction of that. Discontinued models (like the Nautilus 5711) become even scarcer over time as examples are lost, damaged, or absorbed into permanent collections.
Brand recognition and desirability
Rolex has the highest brand recognition of any luxury watch brand -- non-watch people recognize a Rolex. This creates a baseline of demand that does not exist for less recognized brands, no matter how technically superior they might be. A. Lange & Sohne makes objectively better-finished watches than Rolex, but they depreciate because the buyer pool is much smaller.
Condition and completeness
A watch with its original box, papers, warranty card, and purchase receipt commands a 10-30% premium over the same watch without documentation. For vintage watches, original unpolished cases, original dials (no reluming or refinishing), and matching serial numbers are critical. A heavily polished vintage Submariner can lose 30-50% of its value compared to an unpolished example.
Provenance
Ownership history matters, especially for vintage watches. Paul Newman's personal Rolex Daytona sold for $17.8 million. A standard ref. 6239 "Paul Newman" Daytona without that provenance sells for $200,000-$400,000. Celebrity ownership, military issue documentation, or connection to historical events can multiply a watch's value dramatically.
Watches vs. stocks, real estate, and gold
If your primary goal is growing wealth, watches are objectively inferior to traditional investments. Here is the honest comparison:
- • S&P 500: Average annual return of approximately 10% over the past century. $10,000 invested in 2016 would be worth roughly $25,000 in 2026. Highly liquid, diversified, requires no expertise.
- • Real estate: Average annual appreciation of 3-5% plus rental income. Leverageable through mortgages. Less liquid but tangible.
- • Gold: Average annual return of approximately 7% over the past 50 years. Hedge against inflation and economic instability.
- • Watches: Most models lose 20-50%. The top 5% of references might return 5-15% annually, but with high variance, illiquidity, storage costs, insurance costs, and servicing costs ($500-$1,500 every 5-10 years).
Even the best-performing watch references underperform a simple S&P 500 index fund when you account for insurance, servicing, and the risk of damage or theft. The Nautilus 5711 is an extreme outlier, not a representative example of watch investing.
How to buy smart if you want value retention
If you want to enjoy a watch while minimizing financial loss, here are strategies that actually work:
- • Buy pre-owned: Let someone else absorb the initial depreciation. A one-year-old Omega Seamaster at $4,000 has already lost its steepest depreciation and will hold closer to that value going forward.
- • Buy steel sports watches from strong brands: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet steel sports models have the most reliable value retention. Avoid gold and two-tone unless you genuinely love them.
- • Keep everything: Box, papers, warranty card, receipt, hang tags, extra links. Complete sets command significant premiums.
- • Do not over-polish: Light scratches are normal and expected. Aggressive polishing removes metal and reduces value, especially on vintage pieces.
- • Buy at or below market: Use platforms with competitive pricing and negotiate when possible. Authorized dealer waitlists for Rolex mean retail price is often below market, making AD purchases ideal if you can get the allocation.
- • Service with care: Use brand-authorized service centers for modern watches. For vintage watches, use independent specialists who understand not to replace original parts.
Red flags: when "watch investing" goes wrong
Warning signs you are approaching watches wrong
- • Buying watches you would never wear: If you are buying a watch purely for resale, you are speculating, not investing. Speculators get burned.
- • Taking on debt to buy watches: Financing a depreciating asset at 10-20% APR is a guaranteed way to lose money.
- • Chasing hype references: By the time a watch is trending on social media, the easy money has been made. Late adopters pay peak prices.
- • Ignoring servicing costs: A Rolex service costs $800-$1,200 every 7-10 years. A Patek Philippe service costs $1,500-$3,000. These costs eat into any appreciation.
- • Believing influencer narratives: Watch influencers who tell you "this watch will only go up" are often holding inventory they want to sell. Their incentive is not aligned with yours.
The real reason to buy a watch
The best reason to buy a watch is because you love it. A mechanical watch is a miniature machine on your wrist -- hundreds of components working in harmony to measure time, powered by nothing more than a coiled spring. It is one of the last purely mechanical devices most people interact with daily.
Watches mark moments. The watch you buy for your wedding, your graduation, a career milestone, or a personal achievement carries a meaning that has nothing to do with its resale value. A $300 Seiko Presage bought to celebrate a promotion can be worth more to you than a $30,000 Rolex bought as a speculation.
The right mindset
Buy a watch you love at a price you can comfortably afford. Choose a brand with decent value retention if that matters to you. Keep the box and papers. Wear it, enjoy it, and let it become part of your story. If it appreciates, that is a pleasant bonus. If it depreciates, you still have a beautiful machine that brings you daily satisfaction. That is the honest answer to "are watches a good investment?" -- they are an investment in enjoyment, not in wealth.
Verify before you invest
If you are buying a pre-owned luxury watch for value retention, authentication is essential. Upload photos to WatchScanning and confirm it is genuine before committing your money.
Start ScanningFor high-value purchases, we recommend pairing your AI scan with an in-person inspection by a certified watchmaker for complete peace of mind.