Is your Airman
the real deal?
The Glycine Airman is one of the first true pilot's watches with a 24-hour dial, introduced in 1953. Its unique design has made it a collectible piece, but also a target for counterfeits. Here's how to tell the difference.
How to authenticate an Airman
24-Hour Dial with Correct Gearing
The Airman's hour hand makes one full rotation per day (not two). The dial displays 0-24 or 1-24 hours. To verify: set the watch to noon (12:00), then advance it by 12 hours—the hour hand should be at the bottom of the dial (at the 0 or 24 marker), not back at the top. Fakes often use standard 12-hour movements with a 24-hour dial, resulting in incorrect timekeeping.
Purist No-Date Layout
The classic Airman "Purist" has no date window, maintaining a clean, symmetrical dial. The hour markers are applied indices or printed Arabic numerals at 0, 6, 12, and 18 hours. Some modern variants include a date or GMT hand, but the core Purist model does not. Fakes may add a date window in the wrong position or use a poorly integrated complication.
GL293 Movement (ETA 2893-2)
The modern Airman uses the GL293, Glycine's designation for the ETA 2893-2 GMT movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve. The movement should be visible through a display caseback (on some models) with Glycine decoration, including Geneva stripes and a branded rotor. Counterfeits use cheap Chinese movements with no decoration or incorrect markings.
Rotating 24-Hour Bezel
The Airman's bezel rotates bidirectionally and is marked with a 24-hour scale (0-24 or 1-24) to track a second time zone. The bezel should turn smoothly with even resistance and align precisely with the dial markers. On genuine models, the bezel's numerals are printed or engraved clearly; fakes often have misaligned, blurry, or poorly applied bezel markings.
Dial Printing Quality
The Airman dial should have crisp, evenly applied printing for the Glycine logo, "Airman" text, and "Swiss Made" designation. The 24-hour numerals must be perfectly aligned with their indices. Vintage models may show patina, but the printing edges should still be sharp under magnification. Fakes often exhibit blurry text, uneven ink application, or misspellings.
Serial & Reference Number
Glycine engraves the serial number and model reference on the caseback or between the lugs (under the bracelet). The engraving should be deep, precise, and consistent with Glycine's font. You can verify the serial number with Glycine's customer service or authorized dealers. Counterfeits often have missing, shallow, or fake serial numbers that don't match Glycine's records.
Airman counterfeit warning signs
Hour Hand Rotates Twice Per Day
The most obvious tell: if the hour hand makes two full rotations per day (like a standard watch), it's not a real Airman, even if the dial says 24 hours. The Airman's defining feature is its 24-hour gearing, so this is a dealbreaker. Always test the timekeeping over 24 hours to confirm one rotation.
Bezel Numerals Misaligned
The 24-hour bezel should rotate smoothly, and when set to 0 or 24 at the 12 o'clock position, every numeral should align perfectly with the corresponding hour marker on the dial. If the bezel is loose, wobbly, or the numerals don't line up, it's likely a counterfeit or poorly assembled replica.
Missing or Incorrect Logo
The Glycine logo (a winged emblem) should be centered at the 12 o'clock position (or at 6 o'clock on some vintage models) with sharp, clean edges. If the logo is missing, blurry, off-center, or uses a different design (some fakes use a generic "G" or no logo at all), the watch is not genuine.
Suspiciously Low Price
Genuine Glycine Airman watches retail for $600–$1,500 new, with vintage models ranging from $400–$2,500 depending on condition and rarity. If you see an "Airman" for under $200, especially from an unverified seller, it's almost certainly fake. Always buy from authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned platforms with authentication guarantees.
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Frequently asked questions
Why does the Glycine Airman have a 24-hour dial?
The Airman was designed in 1953 for pilots flying across multiple time zones. A 24-hour dial eliminates AM/PM confusion and makes it easier to track a second time zone using the rotating bezel. The hour hand completes one full rotation per day instead of two, with all 24 hours displayed on the dial face.
What movement does the Glycine Airman use?
Modern Glycine Airman watches use the GL293 movement (based on the ETA 2893-2), a Swiss automatic GMT caliber with a 42-hour power reserve. Vintage Airman models from the 1950s–1970s used manual-wind movements, while some limited editions feature the Sellita SW330-2 or other Swiss movements.
How do I read time on a 24-hour watch?
On a 24-hour watch like the Airman, the hour hand points directly to the current hour on the 24-hour scale (0-24 or 1-24). For example, 3 PM is indicated when the hour hand points to 15. The minute and second hands work the same as on a 12-hour watch. Some users find it easier to read after a brief adjustment period.